3-Day Frontenac Provincial Park Backcountry Canoe Trip
3-Days of an Early Spring Canoe Trip in Frontenac Provincial Park.
There’s something extra special about the first trip of the season—and this one did not disappoint. Our energy was high, and the anticipation of finally getting back into the canoe felt a bit surreal (the winter season is so long). We took advantage of the weather, packed our warmest gear, and added a few extra hot chocolates, and we were ready to kick off the 2025 season!
In late April (just after ice-out), we loaded up the car, dusted off the paddles, and made our way to Frontenac Provincial Park for a 3-day, 2-night backcountry canoe trip. This loop had a little bit of everything: early-season solitude, scenic portages, crystal-clear lakes, and peaceful evenings by the fire.
🛶 Route: Big Salmon Lake → Little Clear → Black → Big Clear → Labelle → Big Salmon
📍 Starting Point: Big Salmon Lake Access
📏 Distance: ~20 km total (paddle + portage)
🪵 Portages: 5 total | ~3 km combined
📅 When: Late April, 3 days / 2 nights
We left Ottawa for the ~3-hour drive to Frontenac, registered online ahead of time, and started our paddle from the Big Salmon Lake access point. Provincial Park is paperless! Pre-register online with Ontario Parks and you’re good to go—no need to check in at the office. But I do recommend stopping in at the office before your trip, only because they also offer a great Discovery Program where you can learn more about the park’s ecosystems and wildlife.
Day 1: Big Salmon Lake → Campsite 4A
After unloading the canoe at the Big Salmon Lake access point, we paddled about 3 km to campsite 4A, one of four sites in a cozy cluster on the lake. While the sites are close-ish together, you still have enough space and privacy between each site. We fortunately had the cluster all to ourselves!
The amenities at 4A were impressive; each campsite had a wooden tent platform (a dream when the ground is wet, rocky or full of roots), a solid fire pit with a built-in grill, a well-maintained privy, and a bear-proof food storage bin. Major win.
Even though the lake was still too cold for a dip, our site had shallow, sandy water access—perfect for swimming in the warmer months. There was also a quiet bay just beside us that felt like our own private cove. With a scenic lookout of Big Salmon Lake - highly recommend this campsite!
But the real magic? Big Salmon Lake itself. It’s surrounded by towering cliffs, steep tree-lined shorelines, and dotted with beautiful little islands (note: no camping on them, but perfect for day paddles or picnic breaks). The water was calm, the views were stunning, and it felt like a true backcountry escape, without being too far off the grid.
We took our time paddling to our campsite, soaking it all in. It felt so good to be back on the water, and we eventually settled in for the night. I forgot how much I missed the sounds of ‘summer’—between the ever-so-slightly lapping of water, the distant sounds of loons, and the crackle of our evening campfire, Big Salmon Lake absolutely set the tone for the adventure ahead.
Day 2: Big Salmon → Little Clear → Black → Big Clear | Camp at Site #17
Day 2 kicked off strong with a 923-meter portage from Big Salmon into Little Clear Lake. It was long, but relatively flat and manageable. Little Clear was peaceful, with beautiful campsites we made a note of for future trips.
Next up: a quick paddle and another 666-meter portage into Black Lake. This one was basically as flat as a football field. Black Lake itself? More like a glorified pond—pretty, but no campsites.
From there, we hit the 586-meter portage into Big Clear, which doubled as a hiking route. Again, not too technical (a few steep sections) but easy to follow.
We stayed at Campsite #17 on Big Clear Lake—a new site added in 2024, and easily one of the best we’ve ever stayed at. It had incredible views of the cliffs, a sheltered feel, and a quiet cove to watch the loons. Big Clear is named for a reason—you can see 40 to 50 feet down into the crystal-clear water. With 30-meter granite cliffs along the south and west arms, it’s pure Canadian backcountry magic.
After dinner, we settled on the hill of our campsite with our books, enjoying the amazing weather and views. You can also choose to venture off onto one of the main hiking trails from the campsite if you’re looking for some extra activity.
Day 3: Big Clear → Labelle Lake → Big Salmon Lake → Exit
We woke up early, enjoyed our morning coffee (okay, two cups!) because the paddle over to Labelle Lake was short and sweet. We had a crossing of a 190-meter portage with a steep incline at the start. Labelle was a small but beautiful lake, one of those surprise gems that feels untouched.
From there, we crossed a 491-meter portage back into Big Salmon and paddled our way out with full hearts, tired legs, and plans of when we’d be back.
Our 3-day canoe trip through Frontenac Provincial Park was the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation; I honestly can’t complain about an early-season trip. From paddling across the stunning cliffs of Big Salmon Lake to the crystal-clear waters of Big Clear, every moment reminded me why I love backcountry travel so much. It’s not about going far — it’s about feeling far away.
Frontenac is a great entry-level backcountry trip for paddlers who want a manageable route, scenic views, and the comfort of well-kept sites with solid amenities. It’s accessible, peaceful, and full of those little details (like bear bins and tent platforms) that make any camping trip feel a bit more luxe.
Whether you’re a seasoned paddler or just starting to dip your paddle into Ontario’s backcountry, I’d highly recommend adding Frontenac to your adventure list. You don’t have to go remote to feel refreshed—sometimes, the best kind of escape is just a few hours from home.
